Wines of the World: A new varietal favourite, Gruner Veltliner

Grooner who?  Why, Gruner Veltliner of course.  A white varietal indigenous to Austria, it’s fresh and crisp but not as tart as sauvignon blanc, as round as chardonnay, or as floral as viognier.  It could be mistaken for pinot blanc or riesling.

The most planted varietal in Austria, Gruner Veltliner is always paired with their national dish, Wiener schnitzel. This varietal ages superbly so older vintages even complement typical red wine meats such as game and  beef.  Gruner, as it is often called, is bold, super crisp, dry, and often peppery or spicy. It’s thirst-quenchingly fresh and fruity.  Some have substantial weight, while rich in texture with mineral tones.  When the grapes are picked ripe, grapefruit flavors emerge.

What is contributing to the emergence of Gruner Veltliner in the states?  Austria got the message.  Bring U.S. sommeliers to Austria and show them a heck of a good time while exposing them to the attributes of Gruner, the center piece of Austria’s wine industry. They come home, social network with compatriots over the country, and put Gruner Veltliner on their wine by the glass list.  Patrons are not going to buy a bottle of something they’ve never heard of or tasted.

Vietnamese, Thai, and Chinese flavors, seafood, and even bitter greens go well with Gruner. Ideally bar snacks seasoned with cumin, coriander, and caraway show how food-friendly the varietal can be.  Since most of these Gruners are not high in alcohol, heat from chiles can be added for Texas palates and not blow up in the mouth.  It even has an ability to pair with difficult foods such as artichokes, asparagus, and spinach.  For this reason the Gruner Veltliner is being embraced by creative chefs across the country.

Grooner Gruner Veltliner ($14.99) was our first encounter with the varietal and it is still a favorite.  Fresh and crisp with tart green apple and citrus aromas, the tropical fruit notes blend for balanced acidity. The screw cap bottle has a hip, eye-catching label featuring Toni Silver as the ‘Grooner Girl.”  Other Gruners we have enjoyed are Wilhelm Bergmann, Laurenz and Sophie, Hiedler, and Brundlmayer.  Be bold, get groovy.